The Men’s Suit Styling Options Which is Best for Your Body Shape

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Published: 27th June 2012
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After fit, the way in which you select to style your own men’s suit is the 2nd most significant element when it comes to looking your confident best. Depending on your height and weight, different designs may flatter… or maybe falter. It’s best to be aware of the basics to ensure that you don’t get caught out.

Within this post, we merely get straight to it. Here are some common tips when selecting the style of one's subsequent suit for men.

Suit styling - fundamentals

Your own Height

If you're a below 6” tall you should probably avoid purchasing a 3 button men’s suit jacket because the shortened frontal “V” of the three button settings can make a shorter man look even shorter. A taller man may accomplish a 1, 2 or maybe 3 buttoned suit jacket, but a 1 buttoned suit on a taller man may look a little bit too casual because of the elongated frontal “V.” Generally shorter men should stick to 1 or two buttons on their suit jacket.

Your own Weight

If you're thin you need to look to wear a slim fit suit with thinner lapels (2 to 2.5” wide) and thinner pocket flaps. But if you're a little bit much more stocky, a slim fit suit with thin lapels may cause you to look like you’ve simply attempted to go with something a couple of sizes too little. Not a great look. However, if you are a slimmer guy, then a relaxed fit is going to make you look like there’s room for two inside, or that some pushy sales guy sold you something that fit no one else.

The rule of thumb is the thinner you're the more you'll need to shed weight the suit’s cut, lapels and pocket flaps. While the stockier you're you more relaxed the fit and the wider the lapels (3” wide) and pocket flaps ought to be. Getting the very best look for your men’s suit is all about maintaining the same proportions.

Extra styling options worth your consideration

Lapel Design

There are 3 main kinds of lapels to select from for your suit jacket: 1) Notch, two) Peak and 3) Shawl. The Notch Lapel is the most conservative and is a secure bet for any workplace. It’s the one that looks like a small triangle has been removing from the lapel. The Peak Lapel can also be appropriate from the workplace, but is much more well-liked for special occasions like wedding suits and suits for the races. If work in the workplace, the Peak Lapel could be a point of differentiation, assisting your suit jacket to stand out from the crowd.

Finally, the Shawl Lapel is really a continuous curve with no angles - often having a satin covering. The Shawl Lapel design is almost exclusively used for formal clothes such as dinner jackets and tuxedos - you will never see a Shawl Lapel on a business suit!

Coat Pocket Design

You will find two main variations to your men’s suit jacket pockets: 1) Straight Pockets and two) Slant Pockets. Whilst Straight Pockets are cut horizontally against your body; Slant Pockets are cut on a slight upward angle. Choosing a pocket design for your suit jacket comes down mostly to individual option; nevertheless Straight Pockets are frequently noticed to be a much more traditional pocket design and have a tendency to suit bigger gentlemen.

An additional accent to each pocket styles will be the addition of a smaller “ticket pocket”. Located simply above the right pocket and roughly half the width, the ticket pocket was initially utilized for storing train tickets, yet is now more for trend rather than utility.

Lining Style

An important thing to consider that numerous men overlook will be the lining of their suit. Linings are not simply for utility, but may add flair and individuality to a jacket. An exceptionally patterned lining turns an average suit jacket into an extraordinary suit jacket. Linings should usually be made from cellulose fibres like Bemberg ‘silk’ which combines the carefree ease and breathability of cotton with the soft, luxurious feeling of silk.

“Surgeons Cuffs” (Operating Cuffs)

Traditionally surgeon’s cuffs on the sleeve of a suit jacket were for utility - allowing the surgeon to roll up his sleeves prior to getting stuck in. Today working sleeve cuffs really are a sign of custom tailored suits or maybe fully bespoke suit. The cause for this really is that as soon as the button hole is cut, the suit jacket’s sleeves may no longer be adjusted up or maybe down. Men “in the know” often leave the last button un-tied on a sleeve with surgeon’s cuffs as a subtle signal to others that their suit is customized made or even bespoke.

Handcraft Stitching

A stunning accent to the lapels of one's suit jacket is Handcraft Stitching. Handcraft Stitching is actually recognised like a hallmark of a skilfully hand made custom suit, because it requires a master tailor to insert every stitch manually, taking additional care to make sure that each stitch will be the exact same size and width apart - a skill developed over many years of practice to ensure a high degree of precision.

However beware! Frequently less expensive jackets “fake” the handcraft stitch look by simply utilizing a sewing machine to make the stitches. A simple hand out of fake handcraft stitching is to see if there are stitches on the underside from the lapel, or maybe if the stitches are too consistent or maybe ideal. If done manually, there will always be a little variation and the stitches will never be visible on the underside of the jacket’s lapel!

Suit Jacket Vents

With regards to the rear vent of your suit jacket you have three choices: 1) A Centre Vent, two) Side Vents or even 3) No Vents. A Centre (1) Vent is actually much more often selected by slimmer men, with Side (two) Vents becoming the option for bigger men. However, the current trend for jackets would be to have Side Vents regardless of size.

For more tightly fitted jackets, it is safer to have Side Vents, because having a Single Vent there's the danger of a split showing within the centre. No Vents can be a persona choice, however one rarely made by most men.

Trouser Pleats

You will find three choices for your trousers’ pleats: 1) No Pleats, 2) Single Pleat and 3) Double Pleats. Flat Front (no pleats) has probably the most visually appealing look because it is actually streamlined - suiting slimmer men as it is a slightly tighter fit than the other designs of trouser fronts. It is also probably the most contemporary look. The Single Pleat style allows slightly much more give than the Flat Front, and is a much more comfort-oriented design.

Older gentlemen may prefer this style. Double Pleats are for bigger men that require more give in their trouser, and is extremely comfort oriented - giving a “baggier” look towards the trouser.

Three Piece suits

An increasingly popular option is to opt for an extra vest (waistcoat) to create a three piece suit.

Not just does the vest (waistcoat) assist you to nail that sleek “Wall Street” look; this also comes in handy throughout the winter months when additional warmth around the chest is actually welcomed. The vest can also be worn separately outside of the workplace and much more frequently than not, the same vest bought as part of a three piece business suit, may effortlessly make its way in to an intelligent casual look. Merely wear the vest on top of a crisp white shirt with dark jeans and black leather shoes.

Much more and more men are choosing the three piece suit because of these versatilities.

Exactly where to from here?

If you have just read this post and are thinking “Whoa!! How am I ever going to locate a suit style that has everything that suits me?” don’t fuss. The answer is actually easier than you might believe. All you need to do is think outside the square and rather than shop for a men’s suit off-the-rack, look for a nearby tailor that specialises in custom tailored suits or totally bespoke suits. In the event you live in the US or even Canada, the Custom Tailors & Designers Association (CTDA) contains a list of good custom and bespoke tailors.

In the event you buy your own subsequent suit from a custom or even bespoke tailor, then you’ll be able to pick and choose the exact styling choices that suit you (and probably numerous more than what we’ve listed here). Your own nearby tailor will even help advice you on which designs and fabrics to select. However greatest of all, your suit will be made to measure which means that it would not only be styled exactly the way in which you would like, however will also fit you perfectly too!

Martin Scicluna is an expert in Tailored Suits . He has been writing articles on similar topics like Tailor Made Suits for nearly 2 years.

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